Aac publications asia, china, everest, the hornbein couloir. Did you see that kilian summited everest twice in one week. An influential climber, loretans story has never before been told in english. May 04, 2011 erhard loretan in 1998, below, and above, on the north face of laiguille verte in chamonix, france. He also became one of only a handful of individuals to climb everest via the hornbein couloir. Troillet wanted to solo the central pillar between the hornbein and the great couloirs. In one such instance, we find kurtyka arguing with his partners jean troillet and erhard loretan over the avalanche danger on cho oyu. Erhard is back climbing attempting jannu north face with a 3 person team himself, ueli steck chantal oudin. On thursday 28 april swiss alpinist and mountain guide erhard loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending grunhorn in the bernse alps. The call of everest climbing history national geographic. Or so it seems until kurtyka finds even more pure expressions of interpreting the composition of the mountains in his night naked ascents, within just three weeks, of new routes on both cho oyu and shishapangma, with jean troillet and erhard loretan.
Geneva ap famed swiss mountain guide erhard loretan, one of the few climbers to ever reach the summits of all 14 of the worlds peaks above. With the profits of this company nottaris can finance his expeditions and sponsor some mountaineers like ueli steck and the brothers anthamatten. Join facebook to connect with philippe rey and others you may know. I do not believe that it is a race between climbers rather it is between the media. In the summer of 1986, possibly the most impressive ascent of everest was made by swiss climbers erhard loretan and jean troillet. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks and the second to. Loretan is often credited with bringing fast and light style to the highest mountains new foreword by bestselling writer david roberts on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen. Loretan is often credited with bringing fastandlight style to the highest mountains new foreword by bestselling writer david roberts on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen.
Not a hero, says first climber to scale 14 highest peaks. Such climbing was termed nightnaked by voytek kurtyka. Erhard loretan 28 april 1959 28 april 2011 was a swiss mountain climber. Erhard loretan and partner jean troillet reach the summit first. Mcdonald artfully narrates how each climb led to kurtykas growing concept of alpinism as a liberating, creative practice, even in failure. Three swiss, jean troillet, erhard loretan and pierrealain steiner, climbed 2000 meters of the great face in a single day, bivouacked that night, 7 december, at 7700 meters, just 100 meters below the point where there line met the northeast ridge, and next day followed the ridge to the summit. Jean troillet born 10 march 1948 is a professional mountain climber. Wojciech kurtyka, new routes, cho oyu and shisha pangma, aaj 1991 cho oyu 8201m, tibet himalaya, southwest face, new route, alpine. A few years prior, in 1986, erhard loretan and jean troillet made their legendary ascent up the hornbein couloir and back down to their base camp in 43 hours. Loretan was the third person, after messner and kukuczka, to climb the fourteen 8000meter peaks. Climbing late in the monsoon, and confined for weeks to their base camp by. When erhard loretan and his fellow swiss climber jean triollet reached their advance base camp at 5,850m on the rongbuk glacier, tibet, late on 30 august 1986 they had set a new standard in. In 1986, together with jean troillet, loretan made a revolutionary ascent of mount everest in only 40 hours, climbing by night and without the use of.
Loretan and his client, a 38yearold swiss woman resident in geneva, had been climbing in the range since the previous weekend, and spent wednesday night at the relatively remote. Also in 1969, and at the age of 21, he set a speed record for an ascent of the matterhorn of four hours and ten minutes. I have been reading every non fiction book on everest and k2. Erhard loretan in the webtv studio of the trento filmfestival.
I have been reading every non fiction book on everest and. Loretan on the race to finish the 8000 meter peaks. Loretan was convicted in 2003 of the manslaughter of his sevenmonthold son, after shaking him for a short period of time to stop him crying in late 2001. Of swiss and canadian nationality, he obtained his mountain guide qualifications in 1969.
Apr 28, 2011 geneva ap famed swiss mountain guide erhard loretan, one of the few climbers to ever reach the summits of all 14 of the worlds peaks above 8,000 meters, has died in a climbing fall on his 52nd. Sep 15, 2016 on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen. Erhard loretan one of the greatest mountaineers of modern times, the swiss erhard loretan, was killed on the 28th april whilst guiding in the bernese oberland. And then descended from summit to camp 1 via the hornbein couloir in three and half hours.
This swisscanadian has climbed the ten highest peaks in the world, including mount everest, k2, and kangchenjunga. The book explains the development of night naked climbing and how erhard used it to climb everest with jean troillet in 1986 and cho oyu and shishapangma with troillet and voytek kurtyka in 1990. Swiss erhard loretan and jean troillet, unprecedented and unrepeated, climbed the north face in a single alpine style push without oxygen, ropes, or tents in 37 hours, and glissaded down in under 5 hours. In 86, jean troillet and erhard loretan climbed the north face of everest via the hornbein couloir in 39 hours from advanced basecamp, without oxygen or backpacks. Jean troillet, is one of the greatest climbers to ever walk on the face of the earth. The tale of the polish expedition that made the first winter ascent and the badass exploits of littleknown swiss climber erhard loretan are a welcome distraction from all the dead bodies. The obituary was featured in legacy on april 29, 2011. Geneva ap famed swiss mountain guide erhard loretan, one of the few climbers to ever reach the summits of all 14 of the worlds peaks above 8,000 meters, has died in a climbing fall on his. Messner has written 24 books and runs a renowned climbing school in a. On october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen. In 1986, together with jean troillet, loretan made a revolutionary ascent of mount everest in only 40 hours, climbing by night and without the use of supplementary oxygen.
Unlike messner, they did not even carry a tent and sleeping bags. Conference jean troillet motivation, philosophy and. The team climbed without tents and sleeping bags and packed very little food. Asia, china, everest, the hornbein couloir direct from tibet. But here is some highlights of his career in the mountains. Shisha pangma, central summit 8008m, tibet himalaya, south face left of the yugoslav route, new route, alpine style and nonstop ascent, with erhard loretan and jean troillet swiss article. Kurtyka decided to turn around, while troillet and loretan continued on. Swiss erhard loretan, nicole niquille, jean troillet, as well as my wife annie and i from france, arrived on july 17 by jeep and truck from the nepalesetibetan border. Facebook gives people the power to share and makes the world more open and connected.
A climbers autobiography legends and lore erhard loretan, jean ammann, david roberts on. Together with erhard loretan, troillet holds the speed record for the ascent of everest by. The virgin southwest face of cho oyu and the central couloir of the south face of shisha pangma were the objectives of swiss jean troillet, erhard loretan and me. Jean troillet was born on march 10, 1948 in orsieres, valais switzerland. French alpinist erhard loretans fast, light attack on 8000meter. Like many others so great, one short page will not due him justice. Erhard loretan autor, illustrator, jean ammann autor, jean troillet illustrator. Mar 01, 2008 a polish team completed the first winter ascent in 1980, and two swiss climbers jean troillet and erhard loretanbroke record times in 1986, climbing the north face in 41. Wojciech kurtyka, new routes, cho oyu and shisha pangma, aaj 1991. A climbers autobiography legends and lore by erhard loretan, jean ammann isbn. During the 1990s, the italian hans kammerlander established the record for the ascent from an advanced base camp on the northern side, completing the trip in 16 hours and 45 minutes. When polish climber voytek kurtyka completed his legendary climbs of cho oyu 8,188 metres and shishapangma 8,008 metres in 1990 with swiss mountaineers erhard loretan and jean troillet, the trio considered a minimalist approach to be crucial. New routes, cho oyu and shisha pangma aac publications. Erhard loretan in 1998, below, and above, on the north face of laiguille verte in chamonix, france.
Romolo nottaris is a promoter of the alpine style i. Night naked by erhard loretan, david roberts waterstones. Published by books llc, wiki series, united states 2011. After acclimating for five weeks, they left their advance base. With his fellow swiss climber jean troillet, loretan then 27 conquered everest, the worlds highest mountain, in 1986, making a. Erhard loretan 19592011 was a swiss mountain climber, often described as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times. In 1978 he founded new rock, a trading company for mountain equipment. Mens journal fans of adventure, mountaineering, extreme sports, and everest history will thoroughly enjoy viesturss latest book. During the postmonsoon period, a race develops between the swiss erhard loretan and the frenchman benoit chamoux to be the third person to ascend all fourteen 8000ers. A polish team completed the first winter ascent in 1980, and two swiss climbers jean troillet and erhard loretanbroke record times in 1986, climbing the north face in 41. In 1986, together with jean troillet, loretan made a revolutionary ascent of mount everest in only 43 hours, climbing by night and without the use of supplementary oxygen. Description on october 5, 1995, erhard loretan became the third person to climb all fourteen 8000meter peaks, and the second to climb them without supplemental oxygen. They climbed mostly at night and carried no backpacks above 8000m, a style that became known as night naked. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks and the second to do so without supplementary oxygen.
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